November 2009
4 November 2009Visit to Maharajah Exhibition at the Victoria & Albert Museum
Just one and a half hours was all it took to transport members of Farnham DFAS from a dull November day to the richness, sounds and glitz of India via the Maharajah Exhibition at the V&A.
On arrival we were escorted to the Lecture Hall and given a brief insight to the exhibition which covered the period of 1780 to partition in 1947. Then it was lunch and a quick burst of shopping before setting off at our allotted time to enjoy the exhibition itself.
The entrance set the scene with walls covered in mock gold leaf set against others in a deep red. Sumptuous. Adorning them were many paintings in a very rigid style which meant that everyone was in profile (all the better to show off the magnificent moustaches and sideburns) and the Maharajah himself was always shown with a nimbus, or halo, around his head. This style came in with the invasion of Moguls and persisted until the late 19th century. Whilst these paintings showed both the history and lifestyle of the Maharajahs in intimate detail over the years, they did, to an untutored eye, prove a tad repetitive after a while.
Not so the embroideries. Thick with goldwork and decorated with rubies, emeralds, diamonds and pearls, they echoed the Islamic love of gardens which were regarded as paradise. These stunning works of art were conjured into umbrellas, canopies, cushions and even the caparison of elephants which, along with howdahs played an important part in ceremonial parades. To prove the point one room featured a life-sized model of an elephant in all its regalia topped by an elaborate howdah gilded with real gold.
The jewels, whether decorating swords or scabbards, embroidered onto cloth or fashioned into all manner of jewellery for men and women were almost unbelievable. It was strange though, to see thumbnail sized diamonds cut with a flat surface so that they did not glitter and emeralds and rubies, albeit huge, used with their flaws still visible.
The centrepiece of the last room which was devoted to the playboy Maharajahs of the 1920’s and 30’s was an immensely long pea green, open top Rolls Royce whilst in the display cases round and about were an exquisite picnic set by Vuitton and a mirrored dressing table ensemble by Cartier not to mention jewels which, although very Indian in concept nonetheless embraced the ideas of Art Deco. Indeed Art Deco was much loved by the leading Maharajah of his day – never more so than in the designs he commissioned for his palace with even the bathroom looking as if it should have a place in a Fred Astaire/Ginger Rogers musical.
To bid us farewell there were two larger than lifesize portraits: one of the Maharajah himself looking languid in top hat and tails; and the other of his stunningly beautiful wife. In a way, it was farewell to a whole way of life too.
Copy and picture by Vicky Jackson
Beau Brummell: Dandyism and the birth of London's West End
Lecturer Ian Kelly did brisk trade selling signed copies of his books
In his opening remarks Mr. Peter Duffy highly commended the work of the Church Recorders who have just completed a magnificent record of The Church of All Saints in Odiham. A new venture is now underway and Volunteers will be most welcome to help with this very interesting work. He then introduced Mr. Ian Kelly who is an Actor, Biographer and T.V. Historian.
Beau Brummell became the most famous man in Regency England from his early years as an arbiter of taste and elegance to becoming a friend of the Prince of Wales and a leading influence on the shopping habits of Londoners thus forming the basis of the West End. He associated with politicians, artists and actors.
Dandyism is a form of overstated masculinity with a desire for perfection in dress. He originated smart, uncluttered clothing styles in Blue-black, White and Beige for day and Blue-black for evening thus inventing The Suit, which later became popular also with women and styled by Coco Chanel. A man’s relationship with his tailor was paramount as good tailoring enhanced the body.
Beau Brummell was born in No.10 Downing Street into a wealthy family and was educated at Eton where he had influence on the uniform and developed his ability to amuse with witty conversation scattered with epigrams and ‘Bon Mots’. He went on to gain a Commission in the Dragoon Guards. He also invented the Top Hat to complete the Beau Brummell look. It could take him three hours to dress with one hour spent on the Cravat.
There was much New Money being earned in London at the time and this resulted in more interest in the Theatre and Shopping. People flocked to the Theatres where being seen could be more important than the Play. Shopping was a popular pastime and wonderful shopping malls were built such as the Burlington Arcade. Snuffboxes were all the rage as Toffs took snuff and this gave rise to the saying “Toffee-nosed” A different type of society “Demi Monde” grew up which produced an early form of “Celebrity Culture” and resulted in a lowering of standards.
Sadly, Beau Brummell became a victim of the social climate of the time and fell out of favour at Court as he became ill and depressed. He moved to France where his health declined and he died in Caen. However he had become a legend in his own lifetime and left a legacy of elegance, charm and wit, which will long be remembered.
Ian Kelly’s revealing, funny and detailed lecture demonstrated that Beau Brummell’s clothes and fame were only part of his attraction and Dandyism was a very Masculine attribute.
Copy by Heather Fox
Photograph by Garham Parlett