February 2010
Designed For Wearing: Jewellery In The 20th Century
Chairman Peter Duffy and Lecturer Susan Rumfitt
We learned of the history and fashion changes of jewellery throughout the ages; from a painting of Queen Victoria in 1841 wearing the large, chunky jewellery popular at that time, through the evolvement of more delicate styles in 1890s, illustrated by beautiful winged and ‘firefly’ designs in turquoise and gold.
The industrial revolution brought mass production and by the turn of the century we were into Arts and Crafts and Art Nouveau. We saw slides of gold, enamel and moonstones which were transparent when put before a light. No expense was spared in early 20th century and designers such as Lallique produced stunning jewellery.
In 20th century came a new and more precious metal – Platinum, which found a new market. It was perfect for Edwardian styles. People wore lacework on cuffs and collars and this could be produced in platinum using a mould, and then set with precious stones. Examples appeared large and heavy, but could be split into ear-rings, brooches, hairpieces and pendants, all matching. We also saw a glorious gown adorned with diamonds, lace and crystals.
Jewellery gradually became more ‘structured’. ‘Chokers’ that varied in design were chunky and worn tight to the neck, which must have been most uncomfortable. After the 1914/18 war colour became more important, as did silhouette styles. There came a crazy ‘jazz’ time and designers produced some weird and wonderful jewellery.
The 1930s gave us a ‘white period’ with three-dimentional cut diamonds. Paris put on an exhibition where only twelve of the most famous jewellers exhibited. Designs had to be individual; for a particular woman; and complement her dress, her features and her life-style.
When Cartier visited southern India we were into the richness of gem stones and pearls again, quickly followed by the discovery of Tutankhamun’s treasures, leading to another whole new fashion trend, not only in jewellery but in clothes too. But now simulated pearls were being produced by Mikki-Moto and in came cultured pearls which are popular today.
During the Second World War no jewellery could be made, and if any was melted down 20% of the value had to be given to the Government towards the war effort. The trade routes closed in 1940s/50s but in 1960 jewellery from 40s/50s returned and Dior filled necklines with flexible ‘gas-pipe’ gold necklaces.
Bulgari created a differently cut diamond where allowing the light to enter from the top of the diamond, bounce between the facets which produces the ‘fire’ we see by light reflection on the stone. In 1980s it was not so much ‘what you wore’ but ‘where it came from’ and names such as Bulgari, Tiffany, and Cartier are still much sought after.
Copy by Margaret Grant
Photo by Graham Parlett